Our boat is powered by a truck engine!! [Yacht Refit & Restoration Week 67] (Ep.76)

Our boat is powered by a truck engine!! [Yacht Refit & Restoration Week 67] (Ep.76)


So what we did is here’s the bracket that we drew on cat So, yeah, so that’s what we’re doing now is just gonna scribe that She was old & neglected so we cut her to bare hulls and built her up from the ground with our blood sweat and tears So follow journey as we plan to sail her to new destinations and make lasting memories We fitted our engine brackets to make sure they lined up correctly before we welded them together and had to make some minor adjustments Here at Jacques garage on the off weekend that he has from work and he’s helping us out Basil is also here giving us a hand and You know that you like a premium pro when your spanners don’t have any numbering on them, you just look at them And you’ll be like, yep 21. Basil was lining up our adapter plates and Ricky was lining up our engine brackets to be welded Our adapter plates were welded & now it was the engine brackets turn So what we did is here’s the bracket that we drew on CAD and We shaped it up yesterday on to the engine and showed you what that was all about And today obviously because they are two parts we gonna make them one part and then add gussets in them so that we can reinforce those loading areas and they’re taking about 50 kilos per Unit because the engines about 200 kilos plus the external say 75 kilos each they’ll be loading so they strong enough Ricky did some final adjustments to the engine brackets Check at those beautiful! That’s awesome piece of engine mounts. You don’t get these of the shelf. Styling! Here’s the two engine mounts On either side like that, and then we’ve got adjustments like natural adjustments on these and then the basis itself will do Forwards and backwards and up and down Yeah, pretty sweet custom brackets so sweet to fit her in our in engine bay now. we get these galvanized and and then we’ll spray them with epoxy primer and 2K on top of that to match the engine color yesterday we showed you that we had one of these plates fitting on which was our which is our matchup plate so that one and Pretty much now we’re going to transfer everything that we’ve modified on the first one to the rest of them and this just works out cheaper instead of CNC cutting out of a billet we cut three four plates and then Now we just we weld them in together. It’s a solid piece and that’s our adaptor plate which it allows us to go from the engine Diameter to the bellhousing diameter and obviously all the different PCD holes that we got for the line ups and now we’re gonna drill and tap these and countersunk these So this will be mounted directly up to the motor and then we bolt the bell housing of the gearbox onto this adapter plate, so these will get drilled & tap. Well, just tap. They’ve already been drilled So we just got to tap all of them and then countersunk the bolts that go into the motor and that’s it That’s our adaptor plate pretty much Which was surprisingly quite a bit of work to do There’s just the bottom edge of this where she fits in. The top We’ve got perfect clearance and we just wanna have a little bit more clearance from the bottom from the ring gear for for the starter motor. So we want to take a little bit off this bottom uniformly just wanna scribe it down You will take that material off We welded it all together. So nothing moves and they’re perfectly . We had bolts that were in & we bolted it down Clean it out, weld it all together So they’re perfectly aligned now We scribe going to take that material out and then we’ll do the final weld. If we think we feel it’s necessary So we scribe it so that we can see how much material we’ve removed As long as you describe it uniformly You’re marking should be precise. So we’ve got the mate plate now, and now what we’re gonna do is Going to drill it to size for our tapping process. We’re going to take the M10 to a 8.7 8.5 Got our trust little helper here. We’ve done all the Threading on all of them and on the ones that are not threaded we’re going to stick those high 10 cell bolts through and These are countersunk. So we need to get it countersunk onto that And the reason why is we want this plate to bolt onto the engine with these bolts Then we will use the threaded ones to do the Gearbox onto this the bell housing of the gearbox We also recessed the remaining holes that are countersunk bolts would fit perfectly so We’ve just finished cutting or recessing all of them And now we start filling in all the bolts to double-check that they perfect fits. I Like a glove Check at that so we in to day three of of the build mod and As you can see these the engine in the back of the Pajero still we’re just getting some of these brackets fit into to lift the engine and They’re going to be temp just so that we can get the engine in and out from the car and when we take it Onto the boat, and we’re just building a just a spreader bar pretty much so just a piece of square tubing Only needs to hold two hundred forty kilos and attach some chain to either end of it and a lifting lug here in the middle Where we can handle it from the middle one point with some safety lines then attach so just getting that built quickly so that we can get the engine out of there and Onto an area where we can work on it and there is the adapter plate in Check at that! How good that adapter plates fitting in there Fits in like a glove man looks like it was original like that, and there’s the space that we needed to create with it Too to allow for the clearances of our of the bigger flywheel on this one We had to ensure everything still fit after all the welding So here we got the torque plate So torque/transfer plate so those are our dell line ups We just put a bolt in that on it so that it holds it perfectly secure Yeah, we’ve got a guide plate over here We’re gonna drill all our holes through which line up on the flywheel Where we bolted it on these dowels that we have through there and with what we’re gonna drill is all those holes so that we can bolt the plate onto onto the flywheel and As you can see here, we’ve already got the adapter plate on it’s really sized for that and they Starter motor already mounted now. We just need to get that transfer plate on there and we put the bell housing on and double-check that and then we send the stuff away for sandblasting and coating and there’s the engine mounts already on that also gonna get coated She’s looking good Easy to work here. Thanks again to Basil for letting us use this place here. It makes it a lot easier for us And then she is so what I’ve done is I’ve assembled this whole engine by myself as you can see I did all the hard word We’re listening, explain honey. So this is where our Stern drive mounts the the shaft goes into this hole and then.. This goes onto our boat. Busy sizing the alignment pin here and that’s to take from the drive of the stern drive Into the center of the bearing of the engine So that alignment pin will fit over this one and Keep it perfectly straight so that we centered With the inside on the bearing of the engine you need to make sure that those two a perfectly straight to it and have any vibrations and distortion and then obviously that This drives it and that will just keep it aligned perfectly straight. So when we do the mounting everything lines up really well Everything fit like a glove so it’s time to send our bell housing to get sandblasted So Ricky has to knock out this bearing and shop so that we can take it to go get sand blasted. It’s actually a trick I learned from when I was still riding. When you got seals in the crank and you don’t want to pull the whole crank apart You drill two tiny holes you slowly put screws in and then you pull it up. There’s a metal backing plate in here That that’s really strong. So you go into that like that see and In this case. I knew I had depth so I went in a little bit deeper You literally just yank it out, if you don’t have a seal puller You can do this, even if the shaft is like fills up the whole area You want to get that seal out two tiny little holes really small be careful and then put your screws in with nice long screws and yank it out and then Make sure that you clean up all the all the birs and everything come off. I’m gonna clean all of this up nicely That’s a stainless steel bearing. I’m gonna leave it in. I’m just gonna put in new seals so I’m gonna clean it up pull everything out pull that bearing probably also out and clean it up and put everything back in we got the first sir clip out and then the second and then it was the shafts turn Here’s a head back from sandblasting The guys did a pretty good job now to get a couple of coats of epoxy and paint on there. We Hung up all our items to get painted and got started with the painting So what we are doing right now is applying our first coat of epoxy primer! They each got one coat epoxy primer and two coats of polyurethane Two part paint. our bell housing got painted white to match a stern drive and the rest got painted the same color as our engine Stay tuned till next week we get started on our exhaust and water pump Thanks for watching please subscribe below if you haven’t already and give us a big thumbs up If you would like to support our production you can do so by joining our awesome Patreon family make a one-time donation or buy a t-shirt All links are in the description below. Thanks our awesome new patrons, Sean and Avital

39 thoughts on “Our boat is powered by a truck engine!! [Yacht Refit & Restoration Week 67] (Ep.76)

  • April 30, 2019 at 7:35 pm
    Permalink

    I don't know what it is but I love the engine conversion videos. Awesome as always. Have a Great week. Rah Rah Rah!

    Reply
  • April 30, 2019 at 7:52 pm
    Permalink

    Amper daar…

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 4:24 pm
    Permalink

    what convinced you to use solid motor mounts

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 4:30 pm
    Permalink

    it was a good video again, so as always👍up from me

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 4:35 pm
    Permalink

    Does all this make you think what companies charge for a marinised engine is reasonable?

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 4:51 pm
    Permalink

    Such a beautiful rebuild, it's practically brand new. You guys do amazing work!! The engine looks fantastic and hope it runs forever. I am sure you will be stocking up in replacement parts such as impellers, belts etc. Do you have an idea of what you plan on stocking up? Again, thanks for sharing, I learned a lot and this is one of my favorites.

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 4:56 pm
    Permalink

    To protect your engine from corrosion, get a magnesium block and connect a single wire to the magnesium and the other end to the block. Make sure there is a good electrical connection at each end of the wire and use a conductive greese the protect the exposed steel connection.
    When a corrosion cell is started it will pull electrons from the mag and through the steel. Over time the mag block will start to oxidized, just make sure the cable connection is clean and there is a good electrical connection.

    Cheers!

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:07 pm
    Permalink

    When doubling up plates, drill some large (2mm-4mm) holes in the plates that do NOT line up with each other. Now weld the edge of the hole to the opposing plate. MUCH stronger.

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:09 pm
    Permalink

    It's great to see somebody doing this marianizing, the choice of a truck engine is good, boat need good engines, and there is no reason not to do this if you have the knowledge or access to it. We did a conversion of Cummings diesel to auto trans for rural post office vehicle refits in USA years ago, before electronic getting the trans to work without the usual gas engine vacuum was our challenge. There a lot of extra you have to do here , cooling etc. Cheers Warren

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:12 pm
    Permalink

    I know your using the heat exchanger of the old Volvo engine, could a keel cooler on one of the hulls work as an option? That way you could run the engine with the leg out of the water and not worry about prime failing in the raw water pump. Cheers Warren

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:23 pm
    Permalink

    It’s all coming together….The sea has your name on it

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:44 pm
    Permalink

    A big thumbs up the both of you great job especially on the motor mounts and and that adapter plates that's the way to do it on the adapter plate we done that one time going from a Chevrolet motor to a Ford transmission when I stuck at 327 in a 67 Mustang so keep up the great work and we'll see you next week be safe

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 5:59 pm
    Permalink

    Awesome, your almost there .

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 6:18 pm
    Permalink

    Doing DYI engine work is a real challenge. I'm very impressed with the amount of skill you have in this area. Even so, triple check every bolt and drill hole. Cut corners with cost, not your time.

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 6:45 pm
    Permalink

    good on the pair of you keep on going

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 7:05 pm
    Permalink

    Wow guys, almost there. exciting!! What can't Ricky do?

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 7:43 pm
    Permalink

    Those motor mounts look SERIOUS…

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 8:37 pm
    Permalink

    Very nice to see how those self made or customised parts fit like a glove. Mooi werk!
    Happy greetingz, Wim

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 9:03 pm
    Permalink

    All that Ive seen you guys doing is pretty interesting and the kind of general engineering i used to do in my trade . cheers guys.

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 10:10 pm
    Permalink

    Impressive conversion! Looking forward to next time!

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 10:30 pm
    Permalink

    Simone you are so blessed to have such a multi talented fellow like Ricky…I know you are both busting your butts on this rebuild but just gotta give a whoop whoop to Ricky, he is amazing!

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 11:32 pm
    Permalink

    Most probably the best engine ever installed in a Pajero , albeit in a strange place 😂😂😂. Hats off to all the mighty fine work being done !

    Reply
  • May 4, 2019 at 11:39 pm
    Permalink

    looks good,pleased to see you took special care to align the damper plate,which is critical,as any misalignment will destroy the plate very quickly..
    check the oil pan sump bottom for scratches in the paint before installing the engine as they can rust through quite quickly if the metal is exposed to salty air and water, this often gets damaged in transit to the boat.

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 12:14 am
    Permalink

    do yourself a favour and tack weld the heads for the starter bolts into the bellhousing adapter. so when you need to rebuild the starter later on you won't have to undo the engine from the leg just to stop the starter bolts spinning around. i'd also be giving all those countersunk bolt heads a liberal coat of anti seize so you have a small glimmer of hope of undoing them next time.

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 6:42 am
    Permalink

    Hi you guys. Nice job! Love you're work and vlogs Australia

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 6:44 am
    Permalink

    Looking good – well done

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 8:27 am
    Permalink

    Great video guys. If there is one thing I’ve learned about engines and saltwater it’s “rust”. Paint and galvanizing everything is so critical to corrosion minimalisation. Cadmium platting is just not thick enough on steel to work for extended periods

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 2:19 pm
    Permalink

    Thanks so close guys 👍⛵🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 4:20 pm
    Permalink

    Paint the engine white you will see any oil leaks . When it is in the boat.

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 5:03 pm
    Permalink

    Nice KTMs.

    Reply
  • May 5, 2019 at 10:17 pm
    Permalink

    Well done guys, impressive conversion , super build and very informative vid.Super impressed as to how your videos have have come along , before you know it you will be editing on the water ……..

    Reply
  • May 6, 2019 at 1:10 pm
    Permalink

    Apologies if I missed it. What engine and transmission did you use? Did you calculate the rpms of the engine with the gears of the transmission in relation to your propeller for optimum fuel economy and performance?

    Reply
  • May 6, 2019 at 5:07 pm
    Permalink

    Is the new engine the same HP as the old?

    Reply
  • May 8, 2019 at 7:52 am
    Permalink

    Fantastic work on the engine and the parts to complete it. Wonderful support form friends always helps make things move along quickly. Thank yo for sharing your progress. Take care and have a good week.

    Reply
  • May 11, 2019 at 8:56 am
    Permalink

    Dagse mense! What HP are your enjins? I'm in Sierra Leone currently but busy with a project that I'll tell you about when I get back to SA in the coming months.

    Reply
  • May 12, 2019 at 11:13 pm
    Permalink

    One of the mounts will take more weight than the other due to torque loading and unloading, based on the direction of rotation of the crankshaft. Not sure how the loading on the prop will affect that. They look pretty strong as is, though. Lovely precision work.

    Reply
  • May 13, 2019 at 4:22 pm
    Permalink

    Isuzu actually made several engines that were used in Auto and Marine Applications. We have a Marinized DL-201. Entirely to big for our boat, last owner was a gear head supposedly.

    Reply
  • May 18, 2019 at 7:18 pm
    Permalink

    real? welding them without any phasing?

    Reply
  • October 23, 2019 at 2:04 pm
    Permalink

    Long time no watching as I been travelling , I put a 6 cylinder Cummings turbo diesel in mine on a radiator with fans, goes like a pocket watch,
    Well done thinking outside the box.

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *